June-July 2003
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7:47 p.m. Will, Sasha, Cole, and Pete sort and repack equipment in the shelter |
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9:25 p.m. Bowron Lake from outside the dining room |
7:20 a.m. More sorting and repacking
Our trip started Wednesday morning with a 2.4 km portage from the registration center on the south end of Bowron Lake to Kibbe Lake. At the registration center, they show you the orientation video and then go over some of the material again. Bears are the scariest subject. They track them pretty carefully and ask that you report all sightings when you return or to a park staff member on the circuit. Then they weigh the cargo to keep you to the 60 pound limit in the canoe while portaging.
This circuit is so popular that they take reservations and charge $60 (Canadian) per person. Groups over six stay in group camp sites - and the sites are scheduled on a per night basis. Smaller groups can stay in any site they like.
It took a fair amount of time for Becker's lodge to get us and our rental canoes and gear to the registration center so we didn't start until about 11:00 a.m. The portage was uphill especially at the beginning - so it seemed arduous - but even while portaging after a while one could enjoy the scenery.
~10:00 a.m. Beginning Group Shot
12:04 p.m. Launch into Kibbe Lake after the portage from Park Headquarters
12:31 p.m.
1:28 p.m. Galan and Wes begin the second portage
2:52 p.m. Indianpoint Lake (Jude in foreground)
Campsite 7, Indianpoint Lake
Writing is hard because of the insects - in particular mosquitoes - but there are also nasty gnats that appear to bite and leave small welts.
We started today by paddling the rest of Indianpoint Lake, then portaging a mile to Isaac Lake. We got heavy rain for a while as we approached the end of Indianpoint Lake - but after that the rest has been sprinkles. A heavy wind pushed us down the west arm of Isaac Lake.
9:08 a.m. We take off in the morning
10:04 a.m. Andre acts as an additional channel marker as we go into the marshy
area at the end of the lake.
11:33 a.m First view of Isaac Lake
11:38 a.m. Galan and Wes try using a tarp for a sail
11:58 a.m. Sasha and Nathan
2:09 p.m.
2:10 p.m. Our campsite in the "joint" in Isaac Lake
Campsite 14; Wolverine Bay; Isaac Lake
I hope the mosquitoes will let me sit in one place long enough to finish an entry.
The weather has changed since I started writing today. Since we arrived at our campsite about 1:30, it's alternated sunny and cloudy. But now, about four, the sky suddenly significantly darkened and heavy showers have ensued. At least the rain seems to keep the mosquitoes and the other insects down.
"We" are on a canoe trip called the Bowron Lake circuit. The lakes form a lovely diamond pattern (just killed a mosquito - didn't he hear the rain?). This is a boy scout trip that Pete organized. The adults are Pete, his wife Lois, their friend Jude, Andre, and me. The scouts are my son Galan, my nephews Wes and Jayred, Justin, Cole, Andre's son Nathan, Pete and Lois's son Will, and Sasha.
The rain is letting up a bit and we see sun breaks. Now water just drops from the trees - and the mosquitoes are back.
Thinking of going swimming, but thinking is different than doing.
We've done more than half of the portaging now - having the canoes on wheels beats carrying them - although it does smack of cheating. It's not easy guiding a canoe on wheels. Attached with straps, the two wheels (one axle) are approximately amidships - approximately at the balance point if the load is distributed correctly. Then the person at the front lifts up the front end with only a bit of effort and the person at the back end pushes. Additional effort makes the ungainly contraption go uphill - or in some sense even harder because one has to hold it back - keep it from running away downhill. The 12" bicycle wheels smooth out some of the bumps and many bumps and valleys make the ride bumpy. And we're carrying packs because the canoes are only allowed 60 pounds of cargo while portaging.
Where one is from seems to determine how one pronounces portage. I think in English the a is shorter than the longer sound in French.
5:00 p.m.
5:01 p.m.
5:02 p.m.
7:24 p.m.
7:25 p.m.
8:46 a.m.
9:02 a.m.
9:40 a.m.
11:53 a.m. We take a break before heading to the campsite
3:01 p.m. Campsite from in front of the outhouse.
Campsite 21; Across from the outlet to Betty Wendle Creek; Isaac Lake
Just Canoeing today - all on Isaac Lake. I learned that kneeling is hard on my feet - but much easier on my back. So I alternated between sitting and kneeling. Sun greeted us and continued throughout much of the paddle - occasionally a cloud would darken the sky. Just a few breezes here and there. But, as yesterday;, the wind has come up and the sky has darkened. I imagine that we'll see sudden hard rain.
I managed to lose my watch by leaving it on top of my shirt while putting on sunscreen. I then forgot about the watch and put on the shirt. I think my next watch needs to have an altimeter and GPS.
We headed across the elbow of Isaac Lake and down the east side as that is where all of the landmarks (campsites) are. At campsite 20, we stopped and the boys all had lunch. Meantime Jude and I and Pete and Lois crossed to the west side to look for this campsite. The kids saw us go and took off in pursuit. Jude and I found the campsite - but two kids canoes landed just after we did.
My watch turned up velcroed to the inside of my shirt by its band. It blew pretty strongly but never rained. Andre is playing harmonica. Nathan is trying to catch a fish again. Six kids are playing or watching cards.
7:31 p.m.
7:32 p.m.
8:57 p.m.
9:02 p.m. Galan's very proud of having taken this picture
8:43 a.m.
9:39 a.m.
9:51 a.m.
10:53 a.m.
11:47 a.m.
11:48 a.m.
The weather seems to more broadly smile on us with each passing day. Yesterday we paddled the rest of Isaac Lake and camped by the outlet (campsite 29). I put on sun screen and needed it as those who didn't showed red faces and arms at the end of the day. A few snow capped peaks overlooked the end of the lake and got slightly larger as we approached.
The campsite was right on the outlet and overlooked "the chute." A little further down is the "roller coaster" before one must pull over and portage around Cascade Falls. Several people took this trip sometimes several times in empty canoes and portaged back to the campsite. Everyone took at least one trip except Jude and Lois. I went in the bow with Pete in the stern.
Before any of us tried it, a group from Washington State made every choice. One couple had another couple take their empty canoe down the chute, then loaded it and continue. The "other couple" then took the whole thing in their loaded canoe. One couple portaged the whole thing, and the thirteen year old in his kayak took the whole thing loaded.
After we went down, a German trio came through in a double kayak and a single. They misread the instructions "stay to the left" for the roller coaster as applying to the chute. The single flipped. Wes and Galan helped him unload his gear and get bailed out. They then pulled both kayaks up the side and portaged the entire thing.
Although this is wilderness, wilderness camping this is not. Each site has tent spaces already defined that are leveled, raised, and surrounded by logs, an outhouse, large metal cabinets that serve as bear caches, and one or more fire rings.
Campsite 29 has the additional amenities of three outhouses and an eating shelter. The shelter has picnic tables and a wood stove. Total size is about 12 x 18.
2:33 p.m.
5:44 p.m. Two shots of "The Chute" at the outlet of Isaac Lake
We met in the evening to discuss the various options for the upper Isaac River. In the morning, four canoes portaged. One with Pete and Jude (on loan from me) went through the chute empty and loaded for the rest of the river section. Sasha and Nathan took their canoe loaded. So in the end everyone except Lois went through the chute and roller coaster in a canoe at least once.
8:17 a.m. Last view of Isaac Lake
The primary reason many of us decided to portage is that after the first 1.4 km, everyone has to portage around Cascade - some falls. These falls are not sharply defined but seem like mostly rushing torrents of water through a narrow passage with lots of large rocks.
Then we all got in the water for about a mile. Then we portaged around Isaac River Falls to McLeary Lake. The adults all decided to walk back the short distance to see the falls. But the kids all had to get going down the lake. The falls were spectacular - although the map shows a height of just 11 meters. It is a solid wall of water for the eleven meters..
10:24 a.m. Isaac River Falls
After crossing McLeary Lake, we came to the Cariboo River. The mixing of the silt-laden Cariboo with the relatively clear water of the Isaac is fascinating. I only wish I could have watched it longer.
This section of the Cariboo proved to be relatively benign - one just had to stay alert and not get swept into and deadheads or into anything sticking out from the banks (which may be called "sweepers"). Some of the silt precipitates out upon entry to Lanezi Lake, but some stays suspended n the lake - so it is not as clear as Isaac Lake.
11:42 a.m. We enter Lake Lanezi on the Cariboo River
Campsite 33; Lake Lanezi (rhymes with easy)
This afternoon's entertainment is watching boys horseplay in the water and a brief swim. It was sunny all day until about 4:00 p.m. when it clouded over.
The wind blew strongly enough to force us to take the large tarp down. It rained hard shortly afterwards. The morning was wet with thunder and lightening starting about 6:30 a.m. We delayed leaving for the rain to let up - but once out on the lake it came and went all day with a headwind. In short - the weather was unpleasant.
9:55 a.m.
12:10 p.m. We run into the couples from Washington at our break site and
huddle under their tarps.
We stopped at campsite 37 to regroup and rest for a bit. There we ran into the couples from Washington. One of them had flipped in the Cariboo by hitting a deadhead. They said it wasn't that bad.
But the stop served mostly to make us all colder so we pressed on to the stretch of the Cariboo to Unna Lake. If you don't take the cutoff to Unna Lake, you go to Cariboo Falls - which apparently a German couple did some years ago. Hence the warning signs in German as well as English. Many of the signs are in both English and German - a little different than the usual in Canada.
After setting camp in #41 on Rum Lake - just off Unna Lake, the weather had cleared so Andre, Jude, Nathan, Sasha, Cole, Will, and I headed back across Rum and Unna Lakes to the trailhead to Cariboo Falls. I take the bear spray (instructions: don't use if you have respiratory problems or wear contact lens).
The falls are big and thundering with the spray from the drop rising to the top level of the falls. The noise from the falls can be heard from sufficiently far away to make me think that the German couple (if they existed) are Darwin award nominees.
5:27 p.m.
5:33 p.m.
5:38 p.m.
Cariboo Falls - Main Chute (Video)
Cariboo Falls - From the top (Video)
As we finished looking at the falls, rain began - and became heavy with hail during the walk back to the trailhead. Heavy rain during the paddle back.
Lois is freezing and goes to bed skipping supper. I make sun-dried tomato pesto pasta for dinner - and the considerable excess goes to whichever kids (vultures) that show up first with a bowl or plate.
Clear enough in the morning to pack up - but we get rain as we head back upriver to the cutoff for Babcock Creek. The creek portage the sun actually comes out on - but we get rain during the Babcock Lake crossing - clear on the portage before and after Skoi Lake. But hail at times as we come into Spectacle Lake. But at least the wind is with us. We get whitecaps. It is not uncommon to see blue sky reflected in the lake through rain drops.
12:36 p.m.
12:41 p.m.
Campsite 48; Spectacle Lake
Here at the campsite the other group of six is waiting and we get more alternating sunshine and rain - but the wind is cold.
Panoramic view north from the campsite. This is a composite of several
shots.
10:55 a.m. We decide to let Ms. Moose finish lunch before preceding
12:31 p.m. Becker's from Bowron Lake. The complement of the earlier
picture.
1:16 p.m. Jayred and Justin land in foreground while Lois and Pete land in
the background
2:50 p.m. Andre - self designated "sweep" lands at Becker's
8:57 a.m.
10:11 a.m.
10:15 a.m.